Hamsters

Hamsters

CARE Sheet

Hamster

(Mesocricetus auratus )

Origin:

Middle East

Size:

1-4" long

Pet Status:

Good

Life span:

3-4 years

Breeding ability: Excellent. Gestation period of 16 days; average litter 4-12 babies

Compatibility with other species:

Not recommended

Feeding:

Seed Mixture & vitamin supplements, limited fruits & vegetables

Bio:

Hamsters belong to the rodent family. The name “hamster” is derived from the German word “hamstern” which means “to hoard”. Wild hamsters live in hot areas of Central Asia. To avoid the heat of the day hamsters live in burrows and are nocturnal.

In the cool of the evening and during the night hamsters will search for food - and can travel up to 8 miles in one night. They collect food in their cheek pouches and return to their burrows and empty the cheek pouches into their food store. They are able to carry up to half their body weight in their pouches.

General diet:

In their natural habitat hamsters eat a range of grasses, wind-blown seeds and grain. Hamsters are often mistaken as herbivores, but they are omnivores and do need protein in their diet to keep them healthy. Left alone in the wild, they will find grubs and insects to supplement their diet. The bulk of their diet is cereals and other hard foods which are chewed and digested slowly. This slow eating would make them easy targets in the wild, so they would normally bring their food back to their burrow to eat it in the safety of their own home. This also allows them to hoard spare food, in case it becomes difficult to find at a later date.

Hamsters need feeding every day. As they are nocturnal an evening feed is better for them. They will normally wake at feeding time and will be happy to play with you once they have been fed. A good quality, heavy, earthenware food bowl is essential to keep the food dry and clean. Plastic should be avoided as hamsters will chew it. Do not give foods that contain whole oats as these can puncture hamsters’ delicate cheek pouches.

Treats/extra foods:

Treats are so called because that’s just what they should be – a “treat”. If fed correctly they are not detrimental to hamsters and they will love them. However, treats are designed to be an extremely small element of the animal’s diet, and overfeeding may lead to health problems such as obesity, dental problems and heart disease.

Too much green food will cause diarrhoa as a hamster’s natural habitat is in dry deserts. If you feed your hamster human food, remember to avoid foods that are high in calories, sugary or contain too much fat. To help keep your hamster’s teeth healthy, you need to provide lots of hay and perhaps a gnawing block and safe twigs to chew. Some natural treats you can provide your hamster in small amounts are parsley, carrot, apple, celery, broccoli, sprouts, cauliflower, kale, spinach, peas, tomatoes, banana and cucumber.

They have continuously-growing teeth which is why they need to gnaw hard material which helps wear down their teeth.

Never give sticky foods, such as boiled sweets, as they will stick to their pouches.

Vitamins/supplements:

A balanced diet should provide all the vitamins your gerbil needs. If your hamster begins selective feeding (eating only certain things from its seed mix while discarding everything else) or if you just want to be absolutley sure your pet is getting what it needs, multivitamins are available.

Housing:

In the wild hamsters live in deserts or barren places, and spend the majority of time foraging for food. They are used to being in large, open spaces so need good, secure, but roomy housing. Bought cages and runs are not cheap but they are perfect for your pet.

Hamsters can be housed in a wire cage with a plastic base (just remember that hamsters love to chew), a plastic hamster home or an adapted aquarium (vivarium) with a well-ventilated cover. Wooden cages should not be used as hamsters can chew their way out! The most important thing to remember is that a hamster home can never be too big – they love to explore and exercise. Multi-level cages are a good idea as they add interest to the hamster’s environment – but be careful with plastic tubes as the larger Syrian hamsters may get stuck. The hamster home must always have a place for your hamster to rest and hide, and another area for play, exercise and feeding.

Hamsters must always be kept indoors and careful thought should be given to where your hamster’s home is situated. The temperature in the room should be constant, away from direct sunlight and drafts, away from constant noise (ie: a freezer). Because they have sensitive hearing they should never be placed near a television, CD player, hi-fi, etc.

Ensure your hamster’s cage has lots of room for them to exercise. It is best to buy your cage and equipment before you purchase your hamster so that your hamster can be placed straight into its cage on arrival home, keeping stress to a minimum.

Sanitation/General care:

Use bedding materials that are clean, non-toxic, absorbent, dust free and easily replaced. Some bedding materials are wood shavings (Aspen or kiln dried pine NO CEDAR), shredded paper, processed ground corn cob or commercial pellets. Provide a house or other structure where the pig can hide when frightened or tired. Keep the cage on a stand or sturdy table away from cold, damp areas, out of direct sunlight and drafts.

General Maintenance:

Clean the cage thoroughly with hot water at least once each week. Always remove non-eaten greens, fruits and vegetables at the end of each way and wash all food dishes with hot water at least twice weekly. Make sure that a constant supply of fresh water is available at all times. You can also place toys, ladders, blocks and other materials in their cages to encourage this type of activity.

Health care:

Hamsters are hardy animals and rarely get sick, however if not taken care of properly, they can become ill. Signs that an animal is not feeling well include listlessness, a dull matted coat, refusing to eat, labored breathing, runny nose, watery eyes and constipation. In most cases medications are available at your pet store, in some cases a trip to the vet may be required.

Taming/handling:

To ensure that your hamster becomes tame and affectionate it is important that you handle it frequently and correctly. Picking up a hamster incorrectly could lead to your hamster being permanently frightened and may lead to it becoming aggressive.

Hamsters can often be a little nippy, and this is for a number of reasons:

(1) Hamsters are nocturnal creatures and like to sleep for the majority of daylight hours. A hamster aroused from the depths of sleep too quickly may become a little “grouchy” – just as we would under the same circumstances.

(2) They are also very small prey animals and any handling in the wild would be due to being captured by a predator. Your hand represents a large claw and can be threatening and stressful to the animals. The majority of hamsters will tolerate being handled, rather than enjoy it.

It is important to handle your hamster correctly from an early age. Any rough or incorrect handling can lead to fear later on resulting in aggression – the animal’s response to fear. Handling your hamster will help build their confidence in you, and make them more sociable. You need to ensure that they associate handling with something pleasurable for them.

Before attempting handling, make sure that your hamster is awake and alert. Try not to wake your hamster suddenly if he is asleep.

Always approach him slowly and gently. Place a closed fist in front of your pet, and allow him to approach and sniff. Hamsters rely on olfactory cues rather than sound and, therefore, smell is important so they can detect what is approaching. If your hamster is confident and appears interested, slowly unclench your fist and offer your palm. He may well crawl on to your hand or you can gently scoop him up. Cup him in the palms of your two hands to ensure that he is safe and won’t be dropped. Lift him up slowly as picking him up too quickly would be the equivalent of going up the Empire State Building in 3 seconds! To ensure he is safe at all times you should hold them over your lap or close to your chest.

If he wriggles during handling they may fall and their skeletons are so small and delicate that they are unlikely to survive. This is also true of rough handling – never squeeze or tighten your grip around the hamster during handling. Small children often do not realise how hard they are squeezing.

Never scruff a hamster to pick him up as it can put immense pressure on the head region and possible result in a prolapsed eye.

If your hamster is difficult to catch or aggressive, a simple solution is to use a cup or mug and gently “usher” him in. Place him in a container if he tends to wriggle during transportation. If he is prone to nipping you can use a soft toothbrush to stroke him gently prior to handling. Initially he may bite the toothbrush but continue stroking. He will soon understand that, even if he bites, the stroking will continue – and that it doesn’t hurt him in any case. Continue with this until he no longer bites the brush and, when ready replace the brush with your finger. This whole process may take a few weeks, but will be worth it for both of you in the end.

Supplies checklist:

Appropriately sized cage

Food bowls and water bottle

Bedding

High Quality Seed Mix

Timothy hay

Vitamin supplements

Hiding place and/or nesting box

Chew sticks and toys

Book on the raising and training of Hamsters

One Stop

Country Pet Supply