CARE Sheet
(there are 41 species of mice / in the genus Mus)
Size:
2" long
Pet Status:
Good
Life span:
2-3 years
Breeding ability: Excellent. Gestation period of 20 days; average litter 10-12 babies
Compatibility with other species:
Not recommended
Feeding:
Pelleted and seed-based food
Bio:
Ordinary does not mean boring, however. If you have ever seen a group of pet mice playing, you realize they can be quite entertaining pets. They are a bit skittish and harder to handle than some of the lager rodents such as rats, but they can become quite tame and will take food from the hand and allow themselves to be handled if started at a young age. Mice are quite ideal as small pets that are entertaining to watch, are easy to care for and make very few demands on their owners.
General diet:
Special pelleted and seed-based food is available. Mice can generally eat most rodent food (for rats, mice, hamsters, gerbils, etc)
Treats/extra foods:
Treats are so called because that’s just what they should be – a “treat”. If fed correctly they are not detrimental to a mouse and it will love them. However, treats are designed to be an extremely small element of the animal’s diet, and overfeeding may lead to health problems such as obesity, dental problems and heart disease.
Some natural Treats you can provide for your mouse are parsley, carrot, apple, celery, broccoli, sprouts, cauliflower, kale, spinach, peas, tomatoes, banana and cucumber.
Too much green food will cause diarrhea. If you feed your mouse human food, remember to avoid foods that are high in calories, sugary or contain too much fat.
They also have continuously-growing teeth so need to gnaw to help wear down their teeth. To help keep your mouse’s teeth healthy you need to provide lots of hay and a gnawing block.
Vitamins/supplements:
A balanced diet should provide all the vitamins your gerbil needs. If your mouse begins selective feeding (eating only certain things from its seed mix while discarding everything else) or if you just want to be absolutley sure your pet is getting what it needs, multivitamins are available.
Housing:
Mice need good, secure, roomy housing. the best option is a glass aquarium with a well ventilated cover. Never keep them in a wooden hutch as they will gnaw their way out! Mice are naturally frightened of large, open spaces but love playing in a run that contains playthings, such as boxes, flowerpots, drainpipes and logs.
Sanitation/General care:
Use bedding materials that are clean, non-toxic, absorbent, dust free and easily replaced. Some bedding materials are wood shavings (Aspen or kiln dried pine NO CEDAR), shredded paper, processed ground corn cob or commercial pellets. Provide a house or other structure where the pig can hide when frightened or tired. Keep the cage on a stand or sturdy table away from cold, damp areas, out of direct sunlight and drafts.
General Maintenance:
Clean the cage thoroughly with hot water at least once each week. Always remove non-eaten greens, fruits and vegetables at the end of each way and wash all food dishes with hot water at least twice weekly. Make sure that a constant supply of fresh water is available at all times. You can also place toys, ladders, blocks and other materials in their cages to encourage this type of activity.
Health care:
Mice are hardy animals and rarely get sick, however if not taken care of properly, they can become ill. Signs that an animal is not feeling well include listlessness, a dull matted coat, refusing to eat, labored breathing, runny nose, watery eyes and constipation. In most cases medications are available at your pet store, in some cases a trip to the vet may be required.
Taming/handling:
To ensure that your mouse becomes tame and affectionate it is important that you handle it frequently and correctly. Picking up a mouse incorrectly could lead to your pet being permanently frightened and may lead to it becoming aggressive.
Remember that most small animals are prey in the wild. So, if they are approached from above they will see a large shadow and become scared. They might run and hide or try to attack you.
Before attempting to handle your mouse, make sure he is awake and alert or he might be scared and try to bite you. Talking to your pet makes him aware that you are close by and wanting to socialize. Always approach your mouse calmly and gently. Once your mouse knows you are near, place a closed fist in front of it and allow it to approach. If he is confident and appears interested, slowly unclench your first and open your hand to allow him to craw on to your palm. If he does not approach you, gently scoop him up and cup him in the palm of your two hands to ensure he is safe and won’t be dropped.
To ensure he is safe at all times, you should hold him over your lap or close to your chest. Never squeeze or tighten your grip during handling. Never try to pick up your mouse by the tail as this could lead to injury and he might become aggressive.
If your mouse wriggles during transportation, it is advisable to place him in a container to avoid any accidents.
Supplies checklist:
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Appropriately sized cage
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Food bowls and water bottle
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Bedding
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High Quality Seed Mix
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Timothy hay
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Vitamin supplements
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Hiding place and/or nesting box
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Chew sticks and toys
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Book on the raising and training of Mice